RESTAURANT REVIEW
In the evening, The Duke's Umbrella, Glasgow, is a date-night dream come true. Cosy, candlelit booths, mouthwatering food and charmingly rustic decor all come together to create at at once lively and relaxing atmosphere. It's what most gastro pubs try to create but seldom manage to pull off with such finesse. And as with any good "pub", the chips are a delight!
The Duke's Umbrella self-describes as 'fine-dining comfort food', and it lives up to this promise effortlessly.
Marooon leather booths and homey lampshades live happily alongside industrial shelving and a high brick ceiling. And naturally, the menu is a great balance of familiar pub ideas and fine-dining flourishes.
A great example of this balance is their 'Duke's Burger', which bears a lot of responsibility as the only beef burger on the menu. From a distance, it's a classic beef burger in a seeded bun. However, there's a whole lot going on underneath which elevates it to a fine-dining experience.
Smoked brisket accompanies the high-quality patty, adding a deep flavour and sumtuous slow-cooked texture. The bun itself is heavily seeded not just on the top, but on the bottom too.
The black garlic sauce is certainly tantalising and adds that fine-dining touch, but the star sauce here is actually a jalapeno cheese sauce which is very much a besciamella with just right the right amount of cheese added rather than a cheesy goo.
The chips served with the burger are classic skinny fries, cooked to a good gastro pub standard. However, if you really want to experience a chip that's a cut above the rest, you'll need to try their triple cooked chips.
Not only are they a perfect example of The Duke's Umbrella's ethos of taking pub grub to the next level, but they are absolutely massive too. And despite their size, these chips remain fluffy on the inside and crunchy on the outside - impressive, for such a huge hunk of potato.
The portions here are generous. However, if you have room for a starter I highly recommend it! As The Duke's Umbrella serves a varied array of starters for a range of apetites and budgets. Even the Gordal Olives at £6 are delicious despite their simplicity and humble presentation.
Those seeking something more elevated but similarly light and cheap can opt for the sourdough and whipped chicken butter, or spend over twice as much for some smoked bone marrow, confit onions and hash browns.
The mid-range starters, meanwhile, include veggie fritters, smoked salmon, and pork vindaloo croquettes. There really is something for everyone.
When it comes to fish, there are two mains to choose from, which sit on either side of the balance between pub food and fine dining: classic fish and chips, or pan-seared hake.
The hake is a delight from the exhuberant orange of the shellfish broth surrounding it, to the tender texture of the fish. A generous helping of sanfire atop the creamy, crushed potatoes completes the dish, making it feel that little more expensive and refined.
The Final Verdict
If you want both variety and familiarity in a casual yet romantic setting, The Duke's Umbrella will not disappoint. And while the menu pulls tactfully from other parts of the world, the environment and the food feel quintessentially Scottish in a very honest way.
Whether its a three course meal you're after - though with portions like these, you might only squeeze in two! - or a sit down with a pint, this place has you covered. A truly enjoyable and refreshing experience all round.
Does The Duke's Umbrella Have a Gluten Free Menu?
Unfortunately, The Duke's Umbrella does not have a gluten free menu as such. You are instead handed an allergen guide. And upon inspection, it's easy to see why: there aren't enough gluten free options here to constitute a menu. And the desert section actually contains no gluten free items at all.
However, what is there is good. So much so that I would readily recommend this establishment to gluten intolerant diners. There's just not enough there to warrant repeat trips.
It's worth noting that the triple-cooked chips are gluten free, considering that many establishments like to coat their chips in wheat flour batter.
It would be great to see The Duke's Umbrella incorporate more gluten free options in the future. I'll personally be keeping my eyes peeled for those!
